Hillier Blanc Christian Block 2022

Hillier Blanc Christian Block

• 100% Estate Grown Chardonnay, vineyard planted by Richard Karlo in 2009
• Hand-harvested fruit, 15kg totes, late September 2020
• Whole cluster pressed in a water pressure basket press
• Spontaneous fermentation with a pied de cuve
• Alcoholic fermentation in 50% steel and 50% oak barrels
• Spontaneous Malo-lactic fermentation & elevage
• Barrel & steel portions blended for bottling
• Unfiltered & unfined
• Lightly sulphured after malo & at bottling
• Bottled in December of 2023

Tasting Notes (credit: Rick VanSickle)

Last House Vineyard Hillier Blanc Christian Block Chardonnay 2022 ($46, mid-May release, 94 points) — Gagné, whose palate is calibrated to Burgundy reds and white wines, first released the top tier Christian Block Chardonnay in 2019, and his first thought was “oh, we can do Chablis!” Then the second vintage, 2020, came along, and it reminded him of the whites from the Mâcon in Burgundy. There was no Chardonnay made in 2021, but the 2022s shouted Côte de Beaune Chardonnays from Meursault, he said. “It’s not Chablis, it’s not Macon or Meursault, it’s Hillier, it has a signature that you can see, that I can see,” he now realizes. The 2022 version is wild fermented, whole cluster pressed, aged in 50% stainless steel and 50% in second fill French oak for nine months with no fining or filtering. This consistently shows a certain savoury, saline nose pervasive in the County and amplified in Hillier with pear, yellow apple, quince, bergamot, white flowers and subtle toasty/flinty vanilla and spice. It’s remarkably fresh and lifted on the palate with interesting savoury/salty/briny notes to go with wet stones, a touch of reduction and flint then fresh pear, apple skin, lemon cream, a vibrant texture, elevated finesse, subtle elegant oak spice notes, mouth-coating citrus zest and a lifted, bright finish.